Eight hours into Grand Theft Auto IV, I've stolen 17 cars, run over 20 people and killed another 15 (some of whom had it coming). I've shaken down a couple of store owners and beaten up an old lady. I've driven while drunk and, perhaps worse, while talking on a cellphone.

I've also bowled and played pool. I've listened to some really cool tunes and watched a surprisingly lame stand-up routine by Ricky Gervais. I met a nice young lady and took her out to dinner. I bought some new clothes and got my car washed.

I haven't murdered any prostitutes or engaged in any graphic sex acts. And the violence has been relatively tame.

Still, protests are inevitable, because any game that puts the player in the shoes of a criminal is bound to be seen as perverse. It's hard to argue with critics who find the Grand Theft Auto games immoral, because the developers at Rockstar Games seem to revel in their nihilism.

Grand Theft Auto IV is not for the kids. It's rated "M" for mature, so people under 17 shouldn't be able to buy it. It has lots of blood, some nudity and a nearly constant stream of filthy language. And it's very entertaining.

It's the story of Niko Bellic, an Eastern European who's just arrived in America. As soon as he lands in Liberty City, which looks an awful lot like New York, he's greeted by his cousin Roman, who's been in America for 10 years. Roman has lured Niko with promises of glamour and riches, but all he really has to offer is a dilapidated apartment and a crummy job at a car service.

Niko and Roman's relationship is initially played for laughs, but things take a darker turn when Niko shows up for work, only to end up running errands for a low-level crime boss.

Not surprisingly, given the souped-up graphics of the Xbox 360 and the PlayStation 3, this is by far the best-looking of the GTA games. What took me aback was just how well it evokes New York City, from the glittering skyline of Manhattan (here called "Algonquin") to the trash-strewn elevated-train platforms of the outer boroughs.

The sprawl of Liberty City has one big drawback: It can take a long time to drive from one job to the next. Fortunately, you have a diverse menu of radio stations –talk, rock, jazz or funk.

Individual gameplay elements aren't particularly distinguished. Hand-to-hand fighting is awkward, while gunfights are just a little better.

Of course, GTA is mostly about driving, and Rockstar has made some big improvements. You always have access to a GPS-like device that shows you the best route. You can choose among several camera angles. And the car damage feels more realistic; you can only plow into so many Jersey walls before your performance starts to suffer.Grand Theft Auto IV

B+Rockstar Games, for the Xbox 360, PlayStation 3, $59.99. Rated "M" for mature.